How To Install Replacement Double Hung Windows

When Maddy Krauss and her married man, Paul Friedberg, start laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style home, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, broad front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were likewise delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were however intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-drinking glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the svelte Victorian-era home, This Old House TV'south autumn 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH full general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install free energy-efficient replacements.

Considering the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could apply insert replacement units—in this instance, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, depression-due east insulated drinking glass. These fully assembled, prepare-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the house had cute new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul i more thing to love near their old house. Here's a look at how Tom fabricated the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Illustration by Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Dissimilar total-frame windows, which are designed for new structure, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're bachelor in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as eleven ½ inches to as wide equally 68 inches, and come in woods, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad forest, and aluminum-clad woods.

At that place are iii bones types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom establish on the Newton firm—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, and so the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must exist level and foursquare. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Because you lot're adding new jambs and liners, the drinking glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they take a complete frame that includes caput jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only selection when the quondam window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening downwardly to its rough framing, within and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

Photo past Russell Kaye

The almost important step in the window-replacement procedure happens long before installation twenty-four hours. It's when you mensurate the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you order a replacement unit of measurement that's the correct size. Here's how to practice it.

• Offset by measuring the inside width of the onetime window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the height, middle, and bottom. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
• Side by side, measure out the frame'south peak from the tiptop of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in 3 places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Again, record the smallest measurement.
• Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of foursquare by i/four inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Anything more may crave adjustments to the frame. If the frame is and then out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't look right, you'll need a full-frame replacement.
• Finally, utilise an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come up with a choice of sill angles.

3. Take Out the Sash

Photo by Russell Kaye

• The first pace is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you're planning to reinstall the stops, practice this job carefully; they break easily.)
• Side by side, take out the parting beads to complimentary the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't exist whatsoever beads. Merely printing in on the jamb liners and pull the superlative of the sash forrad.
• Then pin one side of the sash upwardly to costless it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photo past Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them gratuitous. In the instance of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Leave the interior and exterior casings intact.

five. Prep the Frame

Photograph past Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered pigment and patch any holes or cracks with an exterior-grade wood putty, such equally the ones from Elmer'south or Minwax.
• Then sand the jambs smoothen, and prime and pigment the surfaces.

half-dozen. Remove the Old Sash Weights

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are still in place, have this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate backside the window frame.
• Unscrew the access console on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

seven. Prep For Insulation

Photo by Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, considering it'due south more than effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Brand sure to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding cream intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
• First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then bore 3/viii-inch-bore holes, one nigh each end and one in the heart, down through the sill and up through the caput jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

Photograph past Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, just you can do the same task with foam from a can, like Dow'southward Great Stuff.)
• Besides spray cream into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the excess to harden for at least 6 hours, then break or cut it off flush before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

nine. Caulk the Opening

Photo past Russell Kaye

• In preparation for installing the window, utilize an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the outside casings or to the bullheaded stops on the top and sides of the frame. Also apply ii continuous beads of caulk forth the windowsill.

x. Install the Window

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Working from inside the room, fix the lesser of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip it up into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

11. Fasten Information technology Loosely

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Agree the window in identify with one two-inch spiral driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The spiral should be in only far enough to permit the window to operate.
• Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Photo past Russell Kaye

• Suit the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Measure the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is square, screw it in place through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim backside the jamb at each screw, then spiral through the shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility pocketknife.

xiii. Caulk, Prime and Pigment

Photo by Russell Kaye

• From the outside, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than one/4 inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Annihilation wider must commencement be blimp with foam-condom backer rod.
• On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding cream.
• Finish upwardly by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
• Then prime number and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

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